Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Fela Kuti. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est Fela Kuti. Afficher tous les articles

lundi 2 février 2009

Femi Kuti : Le Chaos en héritage (Francis Dordor)

Femi Kuti, fils de Fela, revient sur le devant de l'actualité avec son nouvel album Day By Day. Il revient aussi de loin, comme cet article de 1998, signé Francis Dordor, pour Les Inrocks, le montre...
Ci-dessous, la critique de l'album par le même...

Femi Kuti - Le chaos en héritage
Au Nigeria plus qu'ailleurs, difficile d'hériter du passé : la population tente de survivre après des années de dictature et de spoliations alors que Femi Kuti, le fils du légendaire Fela, cherche à reprendre le flambeau de son père pour donner un nouveau souffle au pays.
Créé le 25 novembre 1998
Dans les rues d'Ikeja, des jeunes ont reconnu Femi au volant de son 4x4 Pajero. Un attroupement se forme aussitôt, paralysant l'avancée du véhicule. Des bras se tendent à travers la portière. Femi se saisit d'une liasse de vieux billets de 20 nairas rangée dans un compartiment près du levier de vitesses et l'offre aux mains quémandeuses, tout en accélérant. "Ces gens me croient millionnaire." Un court moment de frénésie qui révèle crûment l'indigence qui règne ici, mais qui surtout montre combien l'image de Fela, celle d'un sauveur, peut vivre au sein du peuple à travers son fils.
En nous rendant aux obsèques d'un ami, nous traversons Lagos, ville désastre, gigantesque Bronx postnucléaire. Comment décrire ce qui a cessé d'appartenir à une réalité homologable, ce qui ouvre sur un temps d'après le cataclysme ? Coincés sur le Third Mainland Bridge, qui relie le nord de la ville à Ikojo en enjambant la lagune, nous profitons de tous les arômes qui composent le fumet létal de ce cratère méphistophélique : kérosène, oxydes, soufre, charbon brûlé, essence, ersatz d'huile de palme pour des motos sans pneus que conduisent les aeras boys. Ces zonards qui vivent au bord des routes se faufilent sous les voitures pendant les embouteillages pour arracher une Durit d'essence ou débrancher un fil électrique et pratiquer un chantage à la réparation souvent juteux.
Trois jours après le retour, le parfum de Lagos vous poursuit jusque sous les draps, sous la douche. Vous le respirez partout, même dans la bouffe. Votre peau a hérité d'un hâle qui ne doit rien au soleil. Les moustiques ne survivent pas à Lagos. Les touristes non plus, paraît-il. D'ailleurs, on ne délivre pas de visa touristique pour le Nigeria. Seule l'imagination prophétique de quelques auteurs de science-fiction ou les accès apocalyptiques de cinéastes ont pu approcher le delirium qu'offre ce patchwork cannibale de zones en métastases, où toute rationalité européenne est engloutie, où règne une promiscuité inédite entre misère et urbanisme futuriste. Et où, malgré tout, la vie s'entête à être la plus forte. Perdu dans un de ces nombreux quartiers dont on doute qu'ils puissent encore figurer sur un cadastre, où les égouts sont à ciel ouvert et les baraques en rafistolez-moi-ça, Femi soulève l'enthousiasme. Sur son passage, des gens tendent le poing, l'interpellent. Dans leurs yeux brille la certitude de voir la réincarnation de son père, la survivance d'un espoir.
Sur le chemin du retour, une inquiétante lueur rouge se répand sur le satin bleuté de la nuit à la manière d'une tache de sang grossissante. En gravissant le dos du pont, nous découvrons tout un quartier en bordure de lagune dévoré par le feu. Les flammes montent si haut qu'elles semblent vouloir roussir les étoiles. Le spectacle fige par son immensité. Des gens, apercevant des Blancs, certains munis d'appareils photo, nous accostent : "Souvenez-vous bien, les flics étaient là au départ de l'incendie mais aucun n'a bougé... et il y a des gens qui sont en train de griller là-dedans !" Le plus choquant n'est ni la dimension, ni la férocité du sinistre, ni même l'odeur, chassée par le vent du large, mais le silence. Pas un cri, pas une rumeur, pire, pas la moindre sirène de pompier à hululer au loin qui laisserait aux habitants l'impression que, quelque part, quelqu'un se préoccupe de leur sort. "Suffering and smiling, are we not ", disait une chanson de Fela.
Dans la partie résidentielle du quartier Ikeja, banlieue populaire du nord de Lagos, la maison des Kuti n'échappe pas à la fatalité du barbelé et des éclats de verre qui hérissent les murs d'enceinte. Le fait que l'on puisse lire sur le portail Kuti's House, peint en épaisses lettres blanches, donne toutefois à penser que ce nom dresse, entre ceux qui le portent et d'éventuels malfaiteurs, la plus infranchissable barrière : le respect. Ou peut-être la crainte.
Installés dans le salon, grande pièce meublée d'un divan, de quelques fauteuils et d'une télé, Femi et sa soeur Yeni nous présentent leur mère, Remi, la soixantaine argentée, d'une beauté affable tardant à s'estomper. Sa propre mère, petite femme à peau blanche dont les veines charrient du sang anglais, indien et africain, nous rejoint. Si bien qu'avec Made, le fils de Femi, et Funke, son épouse, ce sont quatre générations d'une même famille qui composent le douillet tableau de cet après-midi dominical.
Yeni ouvre une grande enveloppe en papier kraft dont elle extirpe un paquet de photos jaunies et écornées. Sur l'une d'elles, Femi et Yeni enfants sont assis en barboteuse sur la pelouse d'un jardin sans entretien. Sur une autre, Fela et Remi sourient à l'objectif lors de leurs noces londoniennes en 1961. Images simples, ordinaires, d'instants supposés heureux et étrangement décalés par rapport au tumulte des épisodes à suivre : Fela n'est pas encore ce guerrier érotique au corps de reptile couleur de bronze. Il a le visage rond, porte un costume à l'occidentale. Dans les yeux, on ne décèle aucun signe d'orgueil blessé, pas la moindre étincelle de morgue vengeresse. D'une autre enveloppe glisse une photo plus récente : Femi contemplant son père sur son lit de mort. Fela porte la maigreur d'une momie égyptienne démaillotée. L'héritier naturel au trône toise avec gravité la dépouille du pharaon défunt.
Après un déjeuner fait de riz et de viande en sauce, au moment où l'on offre habituellement le café ou le digestif, Femi propose de visionner la vidéo des obsèques de son père. Pendant deux heures défilent les images de la procession funèbre à travers les rues de Lagos, du stade de Tafawa Balawa jusqu'à la maison d'Ikeja où il sera inhumé dans les premiers jours du mois d'août 1997, sous une dalle de marbre noir en forme d'étoile. Des milliers de personnes se pressent sur le parcours, acclament et pleurent. Sous un dais écarlate, où le cercueil ouvert repose, un interminable défilé de parents, amis, anonymes rend hommage au Black
President, au Chief Priest de l'afro-beat, arme si redoutable qu'elle mit les puissants dans l'obligation de l'enrayer. Il y a ceux qui tendent le poing à la Black Panthers, ceux qui dansent autour du sarcophage et se prosternent. Femi regarde ces images, sans doute visionnées plusieurs fois déjà, silencieux. A l'évidence, elles exercent sur lui un pouvoir, sans que l'on puisse parler de fascination morbide. Comme s'il s'en abreuvait pour acquérir définitivement la certitude que son père est tout à fait mort. Et lui bien vivant.
Quand il parle de Fela, son fils passe du familier "papa", au plus distant "my father". Et emploie parfois l'impersonnel "Fela". Ses souvenirs de "fils de Fela" le conduisent assez machinalement à évoquer ces nuits où il somnolait dans l'attente tant redoutée d'être réveillé pour d'effarantes missions. "C'était plusieurs mois après que l'armée a attaqué Kalakuta. A l'endroit même où fut donné l'assaut, mon père avait déposé un cercueil avec ces mots peints dessus : "Ici, la liberté fut écrasée." Personne, pas même les démolisseurs lorsqu'ils vinrent raser le quartier, n'osait déplacer ni même toucher ce cercueil. Tous avaient la certitude que Fela avait caché des gris-gris à l'intérieur. Il avait fait serment par voie de presse de venir le déposer dans la cour intérieur de Dodan Barracks, le palais présidentiel, avant le 1er octobre, date à laquelle le général Obasanjo devait remettre le pouvoir aux civils. Les autorités, averties, l'attendaient de pied ferme. Cette nuit-là, j'ai prié le ciel pour ne pas être réveillé, pour qu'il ait changé d'avis. Mais à l'aube, il vint dans ma chambre, me toucha l'épaule et dit "Femi, c'est l'heure !"
C'est ainsi que Femi, âgé de 16 ans, participe à l'un des célèbres faits d'armes de l'épopée Fela. Au volant d'une fourgonnette, où ont pris place son fils et ses boys, Fela tente d'éviter les barrages que la police a dressés sur les principales artères de Lagos. Mais il ne peut échapper à la vigilance d'une patrouille qui le prend en chasse, toutes sirènes hurlantes. "Ils nous tiraient dessus en visant les pneus. Je ne sais comment, mais nous sommes arrivés devant Dodan Barracks et avons réussi à nous y introduire." Le temps de décharger le cercueil, une meute d'hommes en armes accourt. "J'étais sûr de mourir, mon coeur explosait dans ma poitrine, je suintais de peur. Des soldats rouaient mon père de coups, d'autres au contraire prenaient sa défense." Femi est relâché après trente heures passées dans une cellule exiguë sans manger ni boire, Fela sera libéré quelques jours plus tard sous caution.
Des opérations spéciales, où se lisent à la fois la témérité et le goût de la provocation de leur auteur, Fela en a conduit de nombreuses, comme aller déverser des seaux pleins de merde dans la maison de Moshood Abiola, lors de l'affaire West Africa Decca. Le plus souvent, il emmène son fils avec lui. Car Fela, comme tout guerrier, a le souci de l'exemple donné aux plus jeunes. Femi nourrit aujourd'hui des sentiments contradictoires à l'égard de ce père mort du sida voilà un an, qui fut un héros et une entrave. "Je me suis séparé de lui voilà douze ans. Ses concerts ressemblaient à des réunions politiques. La musique était reléguée au second plan... Alors je l'ai quitté, et tout le pays s'est retourné contre moi. C'est l'époque où je jouais avec mon groupe devant dix personnes, mes meilleurs amis. J'avais besoin du soutien de mon père, mais puisqu'il me le refusait, j'allais devoir m'accrocher. En 88, j'ai failli tout plaquer. A l'époque, ma mère, qui finançait mon groupe, avait déjà investi près de 25 000 nairas (15 000 dollars). Elle n'avait plus assez pour payer le loyer et luttait contre le cancer. J'ai pu continuer grâce à mes contrats en Europe. Heureusement, en 91, Fela m'a invité à jouer au Shrine. Deux ans plus tôt, il avait dit de mon show qu'il était nul. Mais là, il était devant la scène en train de danser et tout le monde l'a suivi."
De Remi, sa mère, Femi a reçu l'amour, une éducation "à l'anglaise" et un soutien inconditionnel. De son père, il hérite d'un orgueil incommensurable, de quelques talents musicaux et du sceptre d'un royaume illégitime situé à mi-chemin entre le temporel et le spirituel, un royaume dont les frontières, floues, lointaines, ne s'imposeront aux hommes qu'une fois la mémoire sanglante de ce pays hors norme définitivement sondée. Cette succession, c'est l'histoire de Femi. Son passeport anglais l'autoriserait à fuir demain pour aller vivre en Europe avec femme et enfant, loin de ce Nigeria ravagé par un demi-siècle de désastres politiques, de ce pays perpétuellement en proie aux forces de mort, qu'elles aient pour noms dictature, brutalité, corruption, rapacité. Femi, pourtant, a choisi de rester.
Lorsque vous portez le nom des Kuti, vous appartenez déjà à une légende qui ne saurait s'assortir d'un départ en catimini. Dans vos veines coule le sang intrépide du révérend Canon J.J.
Ransome-Kuti, pionnier de l'Eglise chrétienne yoruba ; celui de Canon I.O. Ransome-Kuti, son fils, homme acharné et droit, ministre du Culte et directeur de lycée à Abeokuta et Ijebu-Ode, connu pour ses méthodes insolites ; celui de Funmilayo Anikulapo-Kuti, son épouse, mère de la lutte pour l'indépendance : ce personnage implacable va se battre sa vie durant pour que justice et liberté progressent dans son pays et, grâce à elle, les Nigérianes obtiendront le suffrage universel. Accusée d'avoir encouragé son fils Fela à mener campagne contre le régime militaire, elle sera défenestrée lors de la prise de Kalakuta en février 1977 et décédera un an plus tard. Comment échapper à pareille lignée ?
Fela Kuti aura nourri plus d'un imaginaire, mené plus d'une révolution. "Il y a des révolutions qui touchent aux bases matérielles d'une société (...) et des révolutions symboliques, celles qu'opèrent les artistes, les savants ou les grands prophètes religieux ou parfois, plus rarement, les grands prophètes politiques, qui touchent aux structures mentales, c'est-à-dire qui changent nos manières de voir et de penser", écrit Pierre Bourdieu. Fela a donné au continent africain son premier genre musical moderne, l'afro-beat, que l'on pourrait, sans trop faillir, expliquer comme un retour du jazz à l'état primitif.
A la fin des années 60, il a parcouru les Etats-Unis avec les Koola Lobitos, son premier groupe, pour jouer ce highlife jazz élaboré dans les clubs de Lagos et de Londres mais qui laisse le public plutôt indifférent. A cette déconvenue s'ajoute celle de se voir constamment humilié : les agents l'arnaquent et il doit endurer les pires vexations des services d'immigration. Cette galère l'amène à une prise de conscience. "J'étais confronté à une autre réalité de l'homme noir. J'y ai appris une dimension que j'ignorais du passé africain."
Beaucoup disent que c'est aux Etats-Unis que Fela a compris l'Afrique. A son retour à Lagos, il cite Malcolm X, salue ses amis le poing fermé à la Black Panthers et invente cet afro-beat, support de ses nouvelles préoccupations panafricaines. Pourtant, si cette émancipation intellectuelle peut s'effectuer aux Etats-Unis dans un contexte d'hostilité amortie par certaines dispositions constitutionnelles, au Nigeria, où les généraux dictateurs s'engendrent à l'identique, à la manière de poupées russes galonnées, elle débouche rapidement sur un engrenage de provocations et de violences. Dès lors, Fela devient un musicien dissident, un artiste supplicié, un leader politique, un héros populaire. On ne compte plus les procès, les arrestations, les passages à tabac, les enquêtes administratives, les menaces dont il fut l'objet, qui aujourd'hui nourrissent sa légende. Pour ne pas avoir voulu respecter cette frontière
inviolable séparant le symbolique du réel, implicitement stipulée dans le contrat que passe l'artiste avec la société, Fela va s'attirer les foudres des juntes militaires successives. Olesegun Damisi, percussionniste de Femi, recueilli par Fela dans sa république utopiste de Kalakuta à l'âge de 14 ans, parle de son protecteur comme on devine un contemporain de Jésus témoigner sur le Nazaréen : "On n'imagine pas ce qu'il a pu souffrir, et tout ça pour nous." Depuis qu'il n'est plus, Fela fait l'objet d'un culte, sorte de christianisme afrocentriste mâtiné de sorcellerie yoruba. Devenu en quelque sorte une entité multiple, politique, culturelle et spirituelle, Fela a su installer au Nigeria un pouvoir non homologué et pourtant bien réel qui nécessairement, à sa mort, devait se reporter sur l'un de ses fils, dont tout le monde attend qu'il en assume l'exercice avec charisme. Comme il en fait lui-même l'aveu, avec ce mélange de bravoure et de lassitude face à l'immensité de la tâche, Femi n'avait pas le choix.
Cette semaine, plusieurs événements ont mis le Nigeria sur le devant de l'actualité. L'écrivain Wole Soyinka, prix Nobel de littérature 1986, séjournait brièvement à Lagos après un exil de quatre ans. Ayant fui le régime ubuesque du général Sani Abacha, décédé au printemps dernier dans un accident d'avion, son retour devait signifier pour l'ensemble du peuple nigérian que les conditions d'une véritable démocratisation, après trente-huit ans d'indépendance chaotique marqués par huit coups d'Etat, une guerre au Biafra et de nombreux soulèvements, se trouvaient enfin réunies. On laisse entendre que Soyinka pourrait devenir le prochain président élu lors d'un scrutin annoncé pour mai 99.
La tragédie de Jesse, localité située dans la région du delta du Niger, à quelque trois cents kilomètres au sud de Lagos, prouvait en revanche que, si le vent du changement commençait à souffler sur lui, le pays allait devoir supporter longtemps encore l'égarement d'élites spoliatrices qui l'avaient réduit à l'état de navire en perdition. Agglutinées autour d'un pipeline de pétrole brut qu'elles "vandalisaient" avec jerricanes, seaux et baquets, cinq cents personnes devaient périr brûlées après qu'une étincelle, vraisemblablement provoquée par une moto, n'enflamme tout un quartier. Quand on sait que le Nigeria est le cinquième producteur de pétrole au monde, qu'en raison du détournement persistant des fonds alloués par les compagnies européennes à l'entretien des puits et des raffineries le pays connaît une pénurie d'essence sans précédent, on comprend mieux l'impression de dérive qui ici affleure l'esprit.
Ce 15 octobre, Fela aurait eu 60 ans. Femi avait choisi cette date pour convoquer la presse à l'Africa Shrine ("le sanctuaire"), club créé par son père dans le quartier de Surulere, puis déplacé à Ikeja après l'attaque de la concession Kalakuta. Ouvert en juin 78, son existence n'a cessé depuis de provoquer des disputes légales. Un jugement daté du 19 octobre en ordonne d'ailleurs la fermeture pour le 31 janvier 99. Une vingtaine de pétitions circulent actuellement pour tenter de faire échec au projet de fermeture.
Situé sur Pepple Street, l'une de ces innombrables ruelles qui font d'Ikeja un dédale grouillant et cabossé, le Shrine attire dans ses parages la faune des désoeuvrés mais aussi des petits négociants qui, derrière des étals branlants, vendent cigarettes, barres de confiserie, berlingots d'eau, sodas, brochettes et marijuana. Le Shrine fermé, toute une micro-économie serait en péril. Mais cela signifierait surtout la disparition d'un lieu symbolique de résistance par la fête.
La survie du Shrine n'était pourtant pas à l'ordre du jour quand Femi, entouré de ses oncles, de sa soeur et de quelques responsables culturels, annonça devant une cinquantaine de journalistes le lancement de son mouvement M.A.S.S. : Movement Against Second Slavery. En 1979, de retour à Lagos, après un nouveau séjour en prison et un exil écourté au Ghana, Fela avait également créé son parti, le Movement Of the People, avant d'annoncer sa candidature aux élections présidentielles de 83. Le discours de Femi n'est d'ailleurs pas différent de celui assené par Fela au cours de sa turbulente carrière : "Je ne suis rien tant que l'Afrique et le Nigeria n'auront pas retrouvé leur dignité... Mon père reprenait déjà des idées propagées par d'autres, Malcolm X, Martin Luther King, Kwame Nkrumah. Ce message n'a pas encore été entendu. Rien n'a fondamentalement changé. J'aimerais avoir une vie agréable et profiter des bonnes choses. Mais si je me pose cette simple question, "Est-ce que mon fils a un avenir dans ce pays ?", la réponse est forcément "non". Serait-il alors prêt à endurer les mêmes souffrances que son père ? "Fela a tellement donné, tellement supporté pour son peuple que si quelqu'un osait s'en prendre à moi aujourd'hui, ce serait le chaos, l'anarchie, la révolution. Je suis un oeuf. Je suis protégé parce que je suis du même sang. Je suis une bombe à retardement."
L'audace seule ne suffirait pas à le rendre attachant. Femi montre aussi cette lucidité qui lui fait dire, presque en aparté, "Il faudra plus d'une génération pour remettre ce pays en état." Et lorsque vient la remarque que pareil découragement précoce dote toute son action d'un éclairage vacillant, il répond, sincère, désarmé : "Je me sentirais coupable si je n'essayais pas..."
Non, Femi Kuti n'est pas un "fils de" comme les autres. C'est d'ailleurs ce qui nous inquiète : à le voir mener si ardemment ce combat multiple contre les phénomènes visibles et ceux qui ne le sont pas, quelque chose nous dit que tout peut arriver, la folie comme la mort. Ainsi, cette matinée qui avait débuté par une minute de silence, suivie par l'écoute d'un titre de son nouvel album, devait s'achever par le découpage d'un énorme gâteau d'anniversaire illuminé de soixante bougies. Entre-temps, on avait parlé du prix du pain, des coupures de courant, de la pénurie d'essence et de médicaments. Evoqué également le souvenir de Sola, soeur de Femi et Yeni, morte peu après leur père, pour n'avoir pu bénéficier à l'hôpital d'un traitement adapté. Quand on sait que le professeur Koye Ransome-Kuti, leur oncle, fut ministre de la Santé, on imagine la réalité sanitaire du pays. Entre meeting politique, lancement promotionnel d'un disque et cérémonie d'anniversaire, Femi venait de se mettre en demeure de prouver qu'il était digne de son illustre géniteur et d'assurer ceux qui en doutaient encore qu'il serait désormais autre.
Fela Kuti est aujourd'hui béatifié. Lui qui pour nom de guerre s'était choisi Anikulapo, "celui qui a la mort dans sa poche" en langue yoruba, a finalement réussi à y mettre aussi les vivants. Les politiciens, qui l'ont combattu sans relâche, l'utilisent pour obtenir l'écoute du peuple, les musiciens pour acquérir une crédibilité, les vendeurs de T-shirts, de badges ou de casquettes à son effigie pour manger. Et si vous avez l'impudence de les questionner sur les copyrights, ils vous répondent que Fela est autant leur père qu'il est celui de Femi.
Tout ce monde s'était donné rendez-vous au stade de Tafawa Balawa, vaste enceinte de béton habituellement réservée aux matchs de base-ball où un concert gratuit, cofinancé par l'ambassade et l'Alliance culturelle française, réunissait environ 30 000 personnes. Ainsi Femi souhaiterait pouvoir faire du 15 octobre un Fela's day, donnant lieu chaque année à des manifestations culturelles.
Dans une atmosphère pour le moins électrique rappelant les festivals d'antan, avec mouvements de foule, jets de bouteilles, débordements de service d'ordre et même, sur la fin, tirs de mitraillette, le plateau proposait quelques noms de la scène nigériane : Lagbaja, Charlie Boy, Bright Chimezie, ainsi qu'un échantillonnage de la progéniture de Fela : sa fille Shalewa, ses fils Kunle, Seun et Femi. Car un an après la disparition du père, il apparaît que sa succession artistique n'est pas encore entérinée. Seun, âgé de 16 ans, accompagné par l'orchestre de Fela,
Egypt 80, semble en effet déterminé à contester à son demi-frère Femi la couronne de roi de l'afro-beat.
Mais en attendant que la barbe pousse au menton de Seun, la vedette est Femi, dont chaque apparition a valeur de test pour lui, pour le public, pour ses détracteurs. Comme si une question restait constamment suspendue au-dessus de sa tête : est-il celui que l'on attend ? Avant de pouvoir totalement rassurer sur sa dimension messianique, Femi vient de sortir le meilleur album d'afro-beat depuis fort longtemps. Produit par Sodi, jeune Français qui, pour avoir travaillé avec Fela, connaît toutes les ressources de cette musique,
Shoki shoki marque le passage d'un genre, caractérisé jusqu'à présent par l'hypnotisante longueur de ses morceaux, à un format plus radiophonique, à une dynamique plus dance-floor. A l'écoute de ces "tourneries" endiablées assorties de cuivres triomphants, on réalise que, pour le combat qu'il souhaite mener, Femi possède au moins un redoutable atout dans son jeu. Car derrière lui, ce sont les trompettes de Jericho qui résonnent et éclaboussent l'air tiède de formidables séquences aux sculptures harmoniques insistantes.
Quand Femi est sur scène, entouré de Yeni, Funke et de Shade, le visage peint, habillées de lamelles de tissus, rubans et cordelettes rouge et or, falbalas donnant à leur danse la gestuelle et l'érotisme ondulant d'un feu de sabbat, la bière Star et les joints de yamba ont eu bien le temps de vous péter le groin. Femi sur scène, ce sont des instants de grâce hachés par d'innombrables défauts. Son chant perd assez souvent la tonalité mais son père n'était pas Marvin Gaye non plus. Son saxophone révèle bien vite des limites techniques que l'énormité du souffle ne saurait totalement compenser mais Fela était aussi loin de Charlie Parker qu'Albert Raisner de Sonny Boy Williamson.
On aimerait pouvoir échapper au jeu stérile des comparaisons, mais à voir Femi torse nu et saxophone en bouche, entouré de danseuses tribales, comment ne pas songer au père ? Son jeu de scène prouve au moins qu'il se cherche encore une théâtralité qui puisse dispenser des inévitables rapprochements. On y trouve encore beaucoup de maladresse et un certain manque d'assurance. Pourtant, au bout de cet enchaînement de faiblesses, il y a une force qui, lorsqu'elle entre en synergie avec le moteur du groupe, touche quelque chose à l'épicentre de vous-même. Si Femi accorde au répertoire de son nouvel album la meilleure part de son spectacle, il lui faut toujours consentir à l'exécution d'un morceau de son père, le très long et envoûtant B.B.C. (Big Blind Country) ou ce Clear road to Jagajaga, sorte d'Anarchy in the UK version yoruba. "Si c'était moi, commente Femi au sortir de la scène, je n'en ferais rien. Mais ici ou au Shrine, ne pas jouer un titre de Fela serait sacrilège. En Europe, je n'interprète que mes titres." Et comme pour mieux évacuer ses propres défauts, il donne alors à ceux de Fela une importance que n'importe quel biographe ferait flotter bien haut au pavillon des faits de gloire : "Mon père baisait trop de femmes et fumait trop de ganja." Et de vanter l'organisation, l'efficacité, les joies du sport et du mariage.
Il est devenu à Femi d'autant plus difficile de s'affranchir de l'influence de Fela que sa disparition physique lui a donné un caractère de parfaite immanence. Comment tuer le père quand il est déjà mort ? Lorsque vous lui demandez si Fela est venu le visiter depuis son décès, il vous répond sans montrer d'étonnement, peut-être parce que cette question sera toujours mieux comprise en terre africaine qu'ailleurs : "Jusqu'à présent, je m'étais efforcé de rester sourd à ses appels. Par peur. Il y a quelques jours, il est apparu au cours de mon sommeil. Il levait la main et me disait ces choses qu'il ne m'a jamais dites de son vivant : "Nous n'avons pas été très proches toi et moi. Ne m'en veux pas. Je t'aime." Femi Anikulapo-Kuti a sans doute chaussé les bottes de Fela pour une croisade bien incertaine, mais à 36 ans et avec courage, il essaie enfin de naître.

Francis Dordor
Femi Kuti, Shoki shoki (Barclay/Polygram).


Le disque du jour : Femi Kuti, "Day by Day"
On le disait cinglé, perdu pour la musique : c'est pourtant avec un album prodigieux que revient Femi Kuti. En fils digne et révolté de Fela, il chronique aujourd'hui l'urgence, la folie et le chaos du Nigeria – et rénove l'Afro Beat.
Créé le 04 novembre 2008 - par Francis Dordor

Pour tout dire, on a craint pour la santé mentale de Femi Kuti. Depuis cinq ans, les rumeurs les plus alarmantes parvenaient de Lagos par rafales. “Il a viré tous ses musiciens et ne veut plus voir personne.” “Il reste enfermé chez lui à taper sur les touches d’un piano.” Le pic d’alerte fut atteint avec la publication dans un quotidien nigérian d’un article dont le titre avait de quoi rendre perplexe : “Femi Kuti a été vu en train d’errer dans le centre de Lagos complètement nu, fumant un joint.” Femi : “En lisant ça, je dois dire que j’ai mis un certain temps avant d’admettre qu’il pouvait s’agir de moi. Je suis allé demander des explications au journal et voilà ce que l’on m’a répondu : “Ah ! Mais si vous êtes venu aussi vite, c’est que forcément nous avons écrit la vérité !” J’en suis resté coi.”
Hier, parce qu’il voulait révolutionner la musique de son pays pour en refléter la réalité catastrophique, son père Fela Kuti s’exposa à la vindicte, à la violence d’état et ne put éviter la calomnie. Aujourd’hui c’est au tour de Femi d’en passer par là. “J’ai compris que derrière ces ragots, il y avait une volonté politique, celle de me nuire, de me discréditer parce que personne au Nigeria n’a intérêt à voir un fils de Fela devenir trop populaire. J’ai alors compris que pour convertir cette hostilité en énergie créatrice, il me faudrait du temps. Si j’arrivais à prouver que je suis un meilleur musicien aujourd’hui que je ne l’étais hier, alors les gens abandonneraient ces médisances.” Voilà pourquoi, pendant sept ans, Femi s’est mis à travailler le piano et la trompette dans son salon à raison de huit à douze heures par jour. Voilà pourquoi dans Oyimbo, du splendide Day By Day, il chante “Le salut vient de l'intérieur... résolument par la musique.”
Ces dix dernières années ne lui auront rien épargné. Après la mort de son père en 1997, suivie quelques mois plus tard par celle de sa sœur Sola, Femi a vécu un autre drame familial. Sa mère Remi Kuti, indéfectible soutien de sa carrière, est décédée en 2002. “Tout s’est écroulé. Les musiciens de mon groupe, Positive Force, profitèrent d’une tournée en Europe pour disparaître, ma maison de disque (Barclay) m’a lâché, les cadres de l’organisation politique que j’ai fondé, M.A.S.S. (Movement Against Second Slavery) m’ont trahi et ma femme a demandé le divorce et la garde de notre fils, Made (le couple s’est depuis réconcilié)…”
Aujourd’hui, cet invraisemblable chaos trouve sa raison d’être dans Day By Day, son sixième album. Ce disque est un témoignage particulièrement éclairant sur le quotidien de Lagos, capitale du Nigeria, ville monstresse, Gotham City africaine livrée au saccage méthodique de Jokers en boubous de notables. Le Nigeria, c’est bien simple, semble faire depuis trente ans les frais du délire nihiliste d’un cartel de Néron fermement décidés à tout saboter, à ne rien laisser en état de marche, du moindre centimètre de route bitumée aux institutions publiques. Au début des années 70, l’Afro Beat est né de ce scandale qui n’est pas exclusivement nigérian, mais africain. Car l’Afrique est scandaleuse. L’immensité de ses ressources rend par comparaison obscène la pauvreté de ses habitants. La richesse de son peuple rend révoltantes la corruption et l’impéritie de ses dirigeants.
En dénonçant ce scandale, et notamment dans Demo Crazy, You Better Ask Yourself ou One Two, en déchirant le voile d’hypocrisie derrière lequel tentent de le dissimuler les responsables, Femi Kuti s’expose au scandale et aux ennuis. En décembre 2007, la police a investi son club, le Shrine, et arrêté 450 personnes. “Ils cherchaient des armes paraît-il.” Femi n’échappe pas en cela à la destinée de son clan, les Kuti, qui n’a jamais cessé de produire des insoumis dont son musicien justicier de père. Or s’il a toujours voulu se montrer digne de Fela, sur Day By Bay Femi s’affranchit musicalement de son modèle en soumettant des propositions personnelles, parfois par de-là les limites de l’Afro Beat. De sorte que s’il fait ici un pas de géant, c’est au sens coltranien du mot, "a giant step".
Le vrai défi pour lui consistait à capter l’énergie de Lagos, d’en ordonner le chaos, d’en traduire à la fois la puissance démentielle mais aussi la tristesse que l’on ressent à la longue, dimension un peu absente des précédents albums, Shoki Shoki et Fight To Win. Pour réaliser ce tour de force, il lui a fallu ainsi gravir un échelon de compétence de manière à recevoir et interpréter les multiples signes dont sa vie était saturée. Enrichi de ses nouvelles aptitudes instrumentales, il pu alors rénover l’esthétique de l’Afro Beat, semblant s’inspirer parfois des théories du compositeur George Russel (They Will Run) que Coltrane et Miles Davis appliquèrent pour se lancer dans l’aventure du jazz modal. “Je cite Coltrane et Davis dans Do You Know parce qu’ils ont été déterminants dans ma volonté de devenir un musicien. L’influence du jazz dans ce disque n’est pas le fruit d’un intérêt soudain.” Pour cette rénovation, Femi a pu compter sur ses nouveaux musiciens, dont une formidable section de cuivres, et s’appuyer sur la maîtrise de Sodi, qui pour avoir produit sept albums de Fela connaît non seulement l’Afro Beat comme sa poche mais en sait les possibilités infinies.
Si cet album reflète à ce point la vie à Lagos, telle qu’on la vit "day by day", c’est que rien de ce qui fait la folie de ses rues, la démesure de son espace, la violence de ses rapports, n’échappe à la sensibilité du musicien. Qu’il a su en restituer l’ambiance générale mais aussi l’intimité, celle des pleurs, des rires, des souffrances et des plaisirs. Et rien que pour cela, ce disque contient comme une part, même infime, de nous-mêmes

En prime, le teaser de l'album :


Plus d'images sur Mondomix, ici :

dimanche 1 février 2009

Fela : King of the Invisible Art

Originally published in Mean magazine, around Oct/Nov '99.
Reprinted in DA CAPO BEST MUSIC WRITING 2000 book.
 
FELA: King of the Invisible Art
by Jay Babcock


Fela Anikulapo Kuti: 77 albums, 27 wives, over 200 court appearances. Harassed, beaten, tortured, jailed. Twice-born father of Afrobeat. Spiritualist. Pan-Africanist. Commune King. Composer, saxophonist, keyboardist, dancer. Would-be candidate for the Nigerian presidency. There will never be another like him. MEAN brings you the sensational story of Fela, the greatest pop musician of the 20th century, featuring the words of Fela's friends, fans and the Ebami Eda himself. 

"What can I say? I wasn't Hildegart!"
 
Fela always knew the power of a name. If you are African-and especially if you work with music, which shares a link of common invisibility with the spirit world-you must have a spiritually meaningful, beneficial name. Without the correct name, Fela explained, "a child can't really enter the world of the living." He didn't like the name he was given when he was first born, in 1935: his Nigerian parents had followed a local German missionary's suggestion. So Fela died and was born a second time, on October 15, 1938; this time his parents called him Fela. 

"Bear the name of conquerors?" he asked Carlos Moore, author of Fela, Fela: This Bitch of a Life, in 1981. "Or reject this first arrival in the world? The orishas [spirits] they heard me. And they spared me. What can I say? I wasn't Hildegart! It wasn't for white man to give me name. So it's because of a name that I've already known death." In 1975, at the height of his popularity and power, Fela changed his middle name. "I got rid of 'Ransome.' Why was my name 'Ransome' in the first place? Me, do I look like Englishman?" Fela's full name was now Fela Anikulapo-Kuti, which meant in whole, 'He who emanates greatness, who has control over death and who cannot be killed by man.' That same year Fela also started to cheekily call himself Black President, eventually releasing an album bearing the same title in the midst of a thwarted campaign. And sometime in 1986, following his release from Nigerian prison after serving 20 months on trumped-up charges, Fela began to call himself the Ebami Eda, which translates roughly as "the weird one," or more delicately, as "the one touched by divine hand." Fela was touched, alright. But he was not only a visionary musician who created a whole new style of music-Afrobeat-and left behind an incomparable body of recorded music. No. Fela also simultaneously spoke truth to power, and then recorded it as a 12-minute dance-funk song, with a title like "Government Chicken Boy" or "Coffin for Head of State." He endured brutal physical punishment and constant imprisonment. In the end, he died from complications associated with the AIDS virus. His heart was broken: he had sung so much, fought so hard, amassed such popularity, and still, hardly anything changed for the better in his beloved, heart-shaped continent of Africa. So: following is the story of that big generous, humorous, creative, divine heart that Fela had: from its early heartbeats, to Afrobeat, to the beatings it took, to its final, slow heartbreak.

"Disobedience was our 'law.'"
Fela was born into a family of discipline and disobedience-two qualities he would absorb and exploit later in his life. His father was the strict Rev. Canon Israel Oludoton Ransome-Kuti, an ordained minister, grammar school principal and first president of the Nigerian Union of Teachers. Fela's mother Funmilayo, beside being the first known female car driver in Nigeria, was a leader in the country's nascent socialist-nationalist and suffragette campaigns: she even traveled to Russia and China, where she met Mao. "My mother was quite heavy politically," remembered Fela. "And ohhhhhhh, I liked the way she took on those old politicians, all those dishonest rogues." 

As a teen, Fela was already playing the role of witty rebel against authority that he would later refine and perfect. "In school I formed a club when I was sixteen, the Planless Society," he said. "The rule of the club was simple: we had no plans. You could be called upon to disobey orders at any time. Disobedience was our 'law.'" Like many children of the Nigerian middle class, Fela was sent to London to study at university. But Fela, now a trumpet player, wasn't interested in the professional careers in medicine and law that such students (like Fela's brothers) usually pursue; instead, in 1958, three years after his father's death, he enrolled at the London Trinity College of Music. Fela was joined in London by his childhood friend J.K. Braimah, who jokingly told Moore, "Fela was a nice guy, a really beautiful guy. But as square as they come! Whenever we would go to parties he would fill up on cider first. Then he would start challenging the others to dance. He didn't smoke cigarettes, let alone grass. He was afraid to fuck! We had to take his prick by hand, hold it and put it in the cunt for him. I swear!" Fela eventually met (and married, in 1961) his first wife Remi there in London. With some West Indian and Nigerian friends, he started a jazz band called Koola Lobitos, but had trouble finding gigs. Fela sat in at jazz gigs around town; one of the musicians in the scene at the time that he hooked up with was Ginger Baker, who would be one of Fela's life-long friends. Meanwhile, Fela and Remi had their first two children-daughter Yeni in '61 and son Femi in '62-and Fela graduated from Trinity with certificates in practice and theory. 

Fela and his family returned to Nigeria in 1963, where Fela took an unfulfilling job as a music producer with the Nigerian Broadcasting Corporation, which he eventually quit. He had already formed a new Koola Lobitos band, but was finding it difficult to gain momentum in Nigeria's economically depressed nightclub scene. A 1967 tour of neighboring Ghana, where the "highlife" style of music was booming, greatly impressed Fela. "The whole country was swinging so much that I said to myself that this is the right place to come and play," he told Mabinuori Kayode Idowu in his 1986 book, Fela: Why Blackman Carry Shit. But before long, Ghana's Pan-Africanist president Dr. Kwame Nkrumah was deposed in a military coup. The Nigerian government was engaged in a bloody, ridiculous civil war with Biafran secessionists. And mid-'60s James Brown-style Soul music, especially the version played by Ghanaian Geraldo 
Pino, was gaining favor in both countries. Fela was getting pushed out. "Everybody was playing soul, man, trying to copy Pino," he told Moore. "That's why I said to myself, 'I have to be very original and clear myself from shit.'" So in 1969, when Fela was given an offer to tour America with his band, he took it.

"No gigs! No bread! No visa, no work permit! No shit! Nothing!"
The band was wowed by New York City. "I said to myself: 'Look those motherfucking tall buildings! Africans ain't shit! Just savages, man! Oh I was so impressed by America! So blind, man!" Fela recalled. "Today I'd say 'Skyscrapers go up that high? To scrape what? Jo, make 'em scrape dirty streets of Harlem!" In a weird coincidence, Fela had met famous South African singer Miriam Makeba on the plane en route to the U.S.; she gave him the name and address of her agent in New York. But the agent refused to represent an unknown like Fela. Previous logistical arrangements began to fall through. Fela: "Nigeria was now three months behind us. And we weren't IN the America we'd dreamt of. No, man. We were IN trouble! No gigs! No bread! No shit! Nothing! And our visas finish-o! I said, 'Now we're illegal immigrant motherfuckers! No visa, no work permit... Stalemate!' Terrible times, man." 

The band ended up driving all the way across the country in search of gigs, finally bottoming out in Los Angeles in August, 1969 without a permanent residence. "It was kind of difficult at first but ended up okay," Fela's drummer Tony Allen told Mean about life in L.A. "We got some friends that offered us places. There was one guy, he gave us a whole house, without heater! No hot water! One day the Gas Company man, just passing by, saw us. We say, 'Our problem is we don't have hot water or heater.' He came in, and he saw that in the chamber outside, the control was broken. Dead long time ago! So he just went into his car and took a brand new one, bring it up, took off the old one there, fixed it up and opened the gas for us." Some band members took factory jobs while Fela tried to hustle up live gigs and a recording contract. A local musician and drum maker named Juno Lewis saw Fela's group perform and heard that they were to play at an NAACP function at the Ambassador Hotel. It was at this gig that Fela's life changed.

"She blew my mind, really."
Sandra Smith was a young Los Angeles anthropology student radical who had recently joined the Black Panther Party for Self-Defense and was interested in all things African: history, contemporary politics, dance and music. On her friend (and troupemate) Juno's tip, she went to see Fela's band play at the Ambassador in August, 1969. "I walked into the Hotel's Ballroom, wearing this blue bellbottomed jumpsuit and I just happened to look up onstage," Sandra told Mean. "And Fela was looking down. It was like a simultaneous connection, a BEAM that connected just the two of us. And I felt some energy like I had never felt before. At the intermission, Juno said somebody wanted to see me at the bar. And there was Fela." The two quickly became lovers, with Fela moving in with Sandra at her parents' house. Sandra: "As we spent time together, I got to know the musicians, I got all involved in their business. They needed help, and I just got involved. 

The band got a regular gig playing at Citadel de Haiti, a struggling nightclub run by Bernie Hamilton (who would later feature in the Starsky & Hutch TV series) in a red brick building at 6666 Sunset Blvd. "We played there for about five months, six nights in a week," remembers Tony Allen. "Bernie gave us a house and we played in his club. It was grooving, you know." "Anyone that was anybody-John Brown, Melvin Van Peebles, H.B. Barnham, Esther Phillips-came to see Fela," says Sandra. "It was all word of mouth." Sandra was singing onstage with the band, who were playing a mixture of Fela's jazz compositions and his unique arrangements of contemporary soul favorites like "By the Time I get to Phoenix." On his nights off from the Citadel, Fela would sit in around town at jazz gigs, or play private parties-including one where a drunk Frank Sinatra got in a heated exchange with Fela. 
Meanwhile,. Fela was busy writing and arranging music on a piano in the living room at Sandra's house. The band would rehearse using acoustic equipment in Sandra's backyard. Despite hardships-like Sandra having to take an extra job to buy a new trumpet for Fela when his was stolen-the arrangement was a good one, and allowed Fela to begin developing a new kind of music. 

"He'd play at the club, we'd party, and then he'd come home.," remembers Sandra. "Until 3 o'clock in the morning, we were up, we're talking. I remember him telling me how Africans are so stupid. Huh! I had never gone to Africa, but then I was coming into the knowledge of Self, and I believed that Africa had queens and kings and everything. I was intense.
Then I started introducing him to things. I guess he was quiet and listening to me, but I thought I was learning from him." Fela started reading the books that Sandra was enthused about: history books, Eldridge Cleaver, and what would become his favorite, The Autobiography of Malcolm X. "Sandra gave me the education I wanted to know," Fela told Moore. "She talked to me about politics, history, about Africa. She taught me what she knew and what she knew was enough for me to start on. She's beautiful. Nothing about my life is complete without her." Sandra: "At that time, James Brown had 'Say It Loud, I'm Black and I'm Proud.' Fela was singing in Yoruba, you couldn't understand anything he was saying, but the music was getting better and better. He was getting deeper into his African roots. African music is about the chanting. Fela had all these rhythms and all these arrangements, and it was getting so dynamic! But when I asked him what he was saying, he said he was talking about what he likes in his soup! And I was saying, 'No. You need to sing some conscious lyrics. You can pass a message in the music.'" Fela took Sandra's words to heart and began composing his first conscious music: songs like "My Lady's Frustration" and "Black Man's Pride." Afrobeat had been born-in America.

"We Got Real Funky Then"
Fela and his band were ratted out by somebody in L.A. Their visas had expired, and they headed back to Nigeria. "We got real funky then," remembers Tony Allen. Fela changed the band's name to the Nigeria 70. He wrote his first hit record, the humorous "J'eun Koku" ["glutton"]. He bookended his performances and public appearances with the Black Power clenched fist salute he had learned in America. He started holding "Sunday Afternoon Jump" dance concerts at a venue modeled after similar shows he had seen years ago in Ghana. The club itself-two stories, no roof, packed with dancers, trays of very cheap "Nigerian Natural Grass" (marijuana) everywhere-was now called the Afro-Spot. It quickly became the place to see the happening band. In 1970, even James Brown's band came to the Afro-Spot, visiting each night after they finished one of their series of gigs downtown [see Bootsy Collins sidebar]. Singer Vickie Anderson wanted to know who had written the brilliant arrangement of "Phoenix" that she heard at the club (it was Fela); Tony Allen claimed that Brown's people sat by his kit each night, attempting to chart his drum patterns. With Remi and the children now settled in their own house, Fela went about creating what was essentially a hippie commune-with an African twist. 

Fela: "I'd think to myself, 'Ah-Ah! What is this city shit-o? One man, one wife, one house isolated from everybody else in the neighborhood? Is an African not even to know his neighbors? So why all this individualism shit? This "mine." This "yours." That "theirs." What's that shit? Is it African? That's how the idea of setting up a communal compound-one like Africans had been living in for thousands of years-came about." So Fela moved into a large house at 14-A Agege Motor Road in the Surulere district of Lagos, bringing with him his band's female singers, roadies and anyone else involved with his organization. "It was only two floors and there were 100 people, but we were happy," Fela said. "It was beautiful, no problems." The singers-who also danced onstage-were Fela's lovers. He now carried himself as a traditional African village king, or tribal chief, and his women were his "queens"...but they were more than that. He also called them his witches. Sandra visited Fela in Nigeria during that year. "I had a great time, being with Fela. But at the same time, there was a lot of jealousy and animosity towards me by his wives." Sandra was poisoned by one of the girls, becoming so ill that she had to take refuge at Fela's eldest brother's house; Koye was a doctor and he and his wife looked after her. But even far from Fela's jealous wives, she was attacked. "I had a dream that this ghastly-looking thing was hovering over my bed, clawing me with lots of hatred and anger," she remembers. "And I thought it was just a dream, until I saw my body the next morning, covered with claw marks. Koye's wife was a witness to it. That's when I knew African witchcraft was REAL." Sandra returned to the U.S. soon after.

"He Just Wanted to Get Higher!"
In the next three years, Fela's music exploded in vision, quantity (an incredible six to eight albums a year) and popularity. He changed his club's name to the Shrine, saying that he wanted it to be "some place meaningful, of progressive, mindful background with roots. I didn't believe playing any more in nightclubs." He told England's The Independent, "We smoke in the Shrine, all the time. The shrine is not a club, man. It's a place where we dance, we get high, we play drums to evoke the spirit. The power of the Shrine is very strong-the spiritual power...this is why we can smoke dope with impunity." Fela had become a marijuana smoker of epic proportions. Besides smoking giant joints filled with igbo (Indian hemp), Fela had now developed his own marijuana recipe, which he called goro. "He cooked a bag of grass about [two feet long], which cost just two pennies for like two weeks, soaking it with spices, honey and oils. cooked it right, right, right down til it was THICK," says Fela's son Femi. "Very thick! All that came out was about [an amount that would fit in a small coffee cup]. You're only allowed to take about a spoon, and then, in maybe two or three hours, you are just so high, it's unbelievable. It lasts the whole day, two days, three days. Fela trained a couple of people to cook it, and for six years, man, I was the only one who had authorization (except for him), to serve it round the house, to give it to anybody who wants it. "He just wanted to get higher!" laughs Femi. "He even did cocaine for a while, a month or so, but he said it stopped his sexual desires so he didn't like that. So he made goro. When they were traveling, he always made sure the embassy gave him a note, saying the goro was medicine. Which it was. He said that was the main reason he took it: it helped his sexual desire and his creativity." 

Fela's commune was beginning to attract all sorts of folk, from street hooligans and runaways to the nation's political underground. According to writer Bayo Martins, "A radical left wing organization known as the Nigerian Association of Patriotic Writers and Artistes formed a think tank around Fela for the ideological development of Pan-Africanism with his Afrobeat Music, organize mass rallies and publicity strategy which made sure Fela was constantly in the news. It worked. In no time Fela had become a national household word in Nigeria. Contracts for international concerts were starting to flow in." Fela's confidence knew no bounds. He would ride a donkey across the street from his compound to the Shrine before each night's performance, stopping traffic up for miles. He purchased his own printing press and started publishing fearlessly inflammatory broadsides against the dictatorship in the name of his new youth organization, the Young African Pioneers. Fela's neighborhood became a hotbed of anti-government activity. 
Finally, the military could take no more.

How to Make Hit Records, Fela-Style
On April 30, 1974, the commune was raided and Fela was arrested for possession of marijuana. Released on bail, he returned to his compound and re-named it "Kalakuta Republic" ("Kalakuta" being the name of the prison cell he had occupied for two weeks), erected a ten-foot barbed wire fence, declared that the Republic was its own nation wholly independent of Nigeria, and recorded a hit album (Alagbon Close) that chronicled the arrest. 
The police raided the house once again, this time attempting to plant weed on Fela. He asked to look at the evidence-and ate it, right in front of the surprised officers. Once again, Fela was hauled off to jail, where the prosecutors demanded that he produce feces containing the marijuana. Fela wouldn't. He was set three days in Timbuktu, a floating
cell anchored in the Lagos Lagoon behind the prison. Eventually he defecated the weed in secret, and provided "clean" shit to the authorities, who rushed it to the lab for analysis. The results were negative. Fela was released, and immediately wrote another hit album-entitled Expensive Shit-detailing his experiences. At this point the Nigerian Establishment was so upset with Fela's continuing attacks on their corruption-and his lampoons of their efforts to stop him-that he was safe nowhere, not even in other countries. Out on bail, Fela embarked on an international tour, only to be cut short in Cameroon when Nigerian police came across the border and arrested three of his Queens for not reporting to their parole officers in Lagos.  November 23, 1974, Kalakuta was raided for a third time in one year. This time the police weren't interested in arresting people so much as physically punishing them. Everyone in the compound was beaten; Fela himself ended up spending nine days in the hospital, being treated for a broken arm and receiving eleven stitches. Of course he wrote a song about the whole affair; and of course "Kalakuta Show" was another hit. 

"Fela went through the entire gamut of our criminal system, from unlawful assembly to sedition to incitement to the highest of offenses," one of Fela's attorneys recalled in the 1999 TV documentary, Femi Kuti: The New King of Afrobeat. "So virtually all the time Fela's cases were politically motivated and therefore there was no cause to consider withdrawing from defending him. We always believed that Fela would come out of jail stronger, and that was what happened."

The Sacking of Kalakuta
By 1977, Fela's every move was an embarrassment and affront to Nigeria's corrupt ruling class and military government. His hit records named names in both the songs' ridiculing lyrics and triple-vibrant, meticulously detailed sleeve artwork. He gave sensational press interviews. He declared Kalakuta an independent state. .He claimed that he would be voted President of Nigeria if fair elections were held. It was all too much, and another government attack was inevitable. So Fela installed a 65-kilowatt generator to electrify Kalakuta's fence. "You see the type of shit I was forced to do then?" he said. "Just to protect myself and my people, not from robbers, but from the authorities!" 
The government invited Fela to participate in an image-conscious music and arts festival called FESTAC 77-but he refused. "One big hustle! A rip-off!" he retorted. Instead, Fela played concerts each night in his shrine; in attendance each night were many international artists and journalists (including most famously, Stevie Wonder) who came to see the most popular African musician of all strut his stuff. Fela took full advantage of the situation, condemning the government generally and in particular its "Operation Ease the Traffic" program, which involved soldiers whipping drivers during the "go-slow" (rush hour traffic jams). The authorities were infuriated by Fela's actions, and after FESTAC concluded, the military took direct action. On February 18, 1977 about 1000 soldiers surrounded Kalakuta and 
began a 15-hour siege. There was mortar fire. The generator exploded and the house caught fire, at which point Fela and his people surrendered. 
Fela's 78-year-old mother was thrown from the second-story. The Queens and other Kalakuta residents were beaten; some were raped and tortured. The compound itself was burned to the ground, as was the free clinic run by Fela's younger brother Beko. Beko was seriously injured. Fela himself went to the hospital and was then imprisoned on typically ludicrous charges. Although the incident received plenty of attention from the international press (including a lengthy account in The New York Times), the Nigerian government's probe of the event concluded only that a residence at 14-A Agege Motor Road had been burned by "unknown solders." Out of jail, with one arm and one leg in a cast, Fela reacted to this latest injustice as he always had: by making hit records. This time it was two albums, entitled Sorrow, Tears and Blood and Unknown Soldier.

"When I Do Things, I Do Things Honestly."
Homeless and penniless, Fela and his 80-person entourage lived in a hotel (see Lester Bowie sidebar), and then for a short while in his brother Koye's garage. Fela was now encountering difficulties with his record company, the Nigerian branch of Decca, which had changed management hands and was now hostile to releasing Fela's inflammatory records, no matter how popular he was. It was a plain breach of contract, and Fela wanted the money he was contractually owed if such a breach occurred. The label refused, so Fela and his people went to the Decca offices. And stayed. For seven weeks. "The Decca offices has very big sitting room and thick carpets everywhere, so we laid our mattresses down and stayed there in comfort," he explained. Fela finally left for Ghana, where, by 1978, his anti-police 
"Zombie" had become a big hit, especially with the students. He returned to Nigeria briefly on the one-year anniversary of the assault on Kalakuta, playing a show at Ogbe Stadium in Benin City. During the festivities around the event, he married all 27 of his singers simultaneously in a traditional ceremony. "A man goes for many women in the first place," Fela said later, defending his polygamy. "Like in Europe, when a man is married, when the wife is sleeping, he goes out and fucks around. He should bring the women in the house, man, to live with him, and stop running around the streets!" Later he told the Washington Post, "When I do things, I do things honestly. I didn't sleep with any women outside my marriage." And he revealed to the Lagos Weekend, "Me, I fuck as often and as long as I can-o!" 

Fela returned to Ghana with his band, but the popularity of "Zombie"-and Fela's habit of preaching the Pan-Africanist philosophy of Ghana's former leader, Kwame Nkrumah-made the Ghanian authorities nervous; before long Fela was deported from Ghana for being "liable to bring about a breach of the peace." On April 13, 1978, Fela's mother died, having never fully recovered from the injuries she sustained in her fall during the Army's rampage at Kalakuta. Outraged that Olusegon Obasanjo-the ruthless military dictator who had never apologized for the sacking of Kalakuta (and who in 1999 is Nigeria's democratically elected leader)-was leaving office with full honors as the country transferred to supposedly democratic rule, Fela plotted his revenge. "I just couldn't let him get away like that," Fela said.
"Obasanjo's soldiers had killed my mother. That man will have to answer to that one-o!" 

Fela had a life-size replica of his mother's coffin built, which he delivered to Obasanjo's home in the Dodan Barracks on the morning of October 1, 1979. Accompanied by his Queens, his son Femi and others, Fela drove the bus through roadblocks towards the barracks. 
Fela: "Oh, my wives, those women are courageous-o! The sentries lifted their machine guns and rifles. I told them, 'My brothers, will you also shoot my women?' They lowered their weapons. We arrived at gate. We lowered coffin to ground. We turned round. And we left. At that same moment it began to rain. Heavily! Oh, that rain-o!"

"If You Can't Be Creative, Then Split! Disappear!"
The seeming end of military rule in Nigeria in 1980 gave Fela new hope of finally being elected president. He formed a political party called M.O.P. (Movement of the People) and attempted to get listed as a candidate on the ballot. 
"If I can take [Nigeria], then Africa is settled," Fela argued. "All of Africa will be liberated. If there is only one good government-a straight and progressive, clean government that knows what it is doing. No compromises, no Marxism-Leninists, no capitalism. Africanism." During Nigeria's '80-'81 academic session, he gave more than 60 lectures at universities; one such lecture is printed in its entirety in Fela: Why Blackman Carry Shit. In his lectures, Fela related an ancient history of Africa grounded in pioneering Afrocentric Egyptologist Yosef Ben-Jochannan's Black Man of the Nile. His critical history of colonialism was principally based on the influential thinking of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, the father of Pan-Africanism. Fela's acerbic criticisms were relentless. "What America has done to Africa is bad," he said. "Bringing in arms, bringing Christianity, turning the people's minds upside down, bringing in fertilizers, doing shit, wanting to bring western civilization here. America and England are trying to brainwash Africans." 

Fela criticized "reactionary African puppets who] go about condemning apartheid South Africa while they go about killing innocent citizens in their countries to sustain them in power." He preached in favor of traditional African home remedies and against the medicine of the multinationals: cow urine, for example, was a cure for convulsion, and Africans need "synthetic tablets" to cure themselves of malaria. He argued that UFOs existed; that Nigerian 
government leaders should consult spiritual oracles, that there were "people in this country with enough knowledge of Africa's perfect system of government to guide us." Finally Fela argued against industrialization, saying "the future of this world is based on nature, not the machine. Science means complications. When science brings out a new gadget it costs more than the others. People have to earn more to buy it. So science makes people run more. What we need is to rest more, talk more, walk more, fuck more and enjoy things in life more." Fela told Moore, "When people say America, Russia, China are great powers, I say: 'No!' Oppressors, destroyers, massacrists can never be great people. Creativity, not destruction, should be the yardstick of greatness. If you cannot create anything that will make your own life, or that of your fellow human, happier, then get out of the way. Split! Disappear! And give others a chance."

Life and Death in Paris
"After Fela's mother died, it was a very difficult time for Fela," remembers Sandra. It just went all downhill from there."
Besides his mother's recent death, Tony Allen, who had helped Fela develop the Afrobeat sound, had left the group in 1979; Fela's wives were slowly leaving him; and it didn't look like the M.O.P. would succeed in getting Fela on the ballot. But what seemed most important to Fela was establishing some sort of contact with his mother. "He knew that in the African religion that the ancestors play a very important role," says Sandra. "They believe that once a person
transcends to the other side that they're there to help you." Fela had begun to solicit traditional African spiritual mediums, witch doctors and witches. "There were certain people in the house that claimed to be in communication with his mother," says Sandra. "And he was listening to them." "I knew about the spiritual aspect of the African traditions, and I was getting very involved as a teenager," remembers Femi. "And I told him, 'Fela this aspect of life does exist.' But he kept going out to look for traditional powers, and I was like, he has the greatest power, spiritually speaking, from an African man's point of view: to be able to create sound and make people think, make people cry, and to gather over 10,000 people because of his music. I was trying to make him see his spiritual power he had in his possession and he did not have to look anywhere else, but just look inward. "One group of [witch doctors] came with a jacket, saying if Fela wore it and they shot him with a bullet he will not die. They tried it on a goat and the goat did not die. Lucky they got his brother to bring a shotgun and someone says try the jacket on the goat before you put it on. They pulled the shotgun out, put bullets in it and POW! The goat's head just falls off. That would have been Fela's head, man." 

In the spring of 1981, Sandra received a call from a hotel in Paris. It was a very shaken Fela, asking her to come see him immediately. "He felt that they were trying to kill him," she recalls. "He wasn't specific. I just jumped on a plane. I went to Paris for three days. The scene at that hotel was unreal. He had some heavy, wicked people around him at that point. I don't know how he could have remained sane in such an insane environment. "I believe that was the weekend when Fela contracted the AIDS virus [that would eventually kill him]. I felt it. This is something that I can't explain, but it's real."

"I Will be President of This Country One Day. Don't Worry!"
On his return to Nigeria from Europe, Fela had a spiritual revelation, in which he was possessed. "I saw this whole [world] was going to change into what people call the Age of Aquarius," he told writer Roger Steffens. "Musicians were going to be very important in the development of human society and that musicians would be presidents of different countries and artists would be the dictators of society. The mind would be freer, less complicated institutions, less complicated technologies. It was in that trance that I saw the whole human race were in Egypt under the spiritual guidance of the Gods." 

Fela immediately changed the name of his group to Egypt 80, and began to perform Yoruba rites in the middle of his performances at the Shrine at an altar decorated with images of luminaries like Malcolm X, Dr. Kwame Nkrumah and Fela's mother. The uncle of his old friend J.K. Braimah made spiritual incisions in the center of Fela's head. And finally, a witch doctor named Professor Hindu arrived from Ghana, claiming he had the power to "kill and wake"-to kill a man and bring him back to life. Fela said, "That night he performed at Shrine. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen that shit with my own eyes. 'Kill and wake!' He's the man who started showing me the way to truth, to myself, to my mission and to...my mother! He revealed to me that one has to put this white spiritual powder on the face to communicate with spirits. He tells me what to do, what not to do, who my friends are and who are my enemies." Femi was more skeptical. "Yes, Hindu performed a lot of magic," he says. "And I have no answers for some of the things he did. But when he said he killed somebody, and he did not let my father's brother [Beko] investigate properly, [almost] everybody became suspicious." 

In December 1981, Kalakuta was once again assaulted-this attack was captured on still camera by the French TV crew that happened to be there filming the documentary later released as Music Is the Weapon. Police raided the compound, plundering the buildings and teargassing and beating everyone, including pregnant women and children. Once again Fela returned from jail, beaten but defiant-and as charismatic as ever. "I'm getting stronger," he boasted to the film crew. "In fact I'm surprised at how quickly I've recovered, considering the beating I got. "Something tells me that I am right, that I WILL be president of this country one day," he said, cheekily. "Don't worry!" But once again, Fela was prevented from even running for election; instead, he became embroiled in a new host of absurd charges-this time for 
sabotage, murder and armed robbery-that would eventually be dismissed.

Prisoner of Conscience
Over the next few years, for various reasons, Fela's domestic popularity began to dwindle. In 1984, he agreed to co-produce (or mix) his next album with the American producer Bill Laswell. But on September 4, as Fela was leaving for the U.S. to mix the album with Laswell and do a short tour, he was arrested once again. This time Fela was accused by Nigerian Customs officials of trying to smuggle Nigerian currency out of the country. Fela was sentenced to five years in jail after a trial that was such an obvious procedural sham that Amnesty International declared Fela a Prisoner of Conscience. A "Free Fela" movement was born, with popular musicians like Stevie Wonder and David Byrne signing on. On Sept. 24, 1985, the case's judge visited Fela in jail and apologized; he said the ruling government had forced his decision and made him jail Fela. But it wasn't until April 23, 1986-after 20 months in jail-that Fela was released, when news of the judge's secret prison visit finally began to circulate in the popular press, embarrassing the current  government. Fela was not the same when he came out of prison. "I can still see all the marks on his body from the bayonets of the guns and all that," remembers Femi. "He got beaten so. His whole body was kind of broken. Head injuries, his hands. He was in real pain for a long time. When people were around, he would try to hide it. I think what saved him was the grass, at the end of the day. It helped him handle the pain. He wouldn't have done it, normally. No human being could do that. "There will never be another man like him. He started calling himself Ebami Eda, which means 'the weird one,' after he came from jail. He believed he was protected by something, by spirits, by the supernatural. Because he did not know where the music came from. It comes from somewhere else, something else that you cannot see. And music is related to that, because music is the one artform that you cannot touch, that you cannot see. You can see the instruments and you can plan in your head the music you will make, but you cannot say how it will sound." 

"Music is a spiritual thing," Fela said in 1982. "You don't play with music. If you play with music, you will die young. Because when the higher forces give you the gift of musicianship, it must be well-used for the good of humanity. If you use it for your own self by deceiving people or doing this, you will die young. And I have told people this many times. 
So, I'm gonna prove them wrong and prove myself right. I'm getting younger! I can play music for ten hours. I'm never tired...because the spiritual life of music that I've lead RIGHTLY is helping me now. "You tap into something-or, it taps into you," says Femi. "You have some say, your creativity, in arranging it, in making it your own. But you are still a medium for something, for whatever...message...they want to put out He was a medium for it." "Fela's career continued to go, but another type of realization had come in," says Sandra. "Fela told me there was nothing else to sing about, nothing else to talk about, because he'd said it all [and nothing had changed]. He was very sad. "This was a man who had been very jovial-type person. He became a recluse. Fela was caught in his own world of Kalakuta. He was the king there, and he surrounded himself with a bunch of 'yes men.'" "He knew what he wanted in the '70s," says Femi. "He knew what he was up against. He knew he could die. He was ready. In the '80s, I think he was now getting frustrated. Fela's problems started when he went spiritual. Cuz now he wanted an answer, from traditional medicine, he was looking for African technology. For all these years he has been fighting for the African people. Why are Africans not doing anything about what he has been talking about?" Nevertheless, Fela continued to compose and perform (if not record) some brilliant music, as well as give sensational interviews to the Lagos press.

"I Will Never Die."
Fela told the press that recent his skin rashes were spiritual in origin-he was "changing skin," with a new skin scheduled to appear on January 1, 1992. He claimed he was still making love three hours a day-as well as brushing his teeth for an hour and taking 45 minutes in the bath, during which he would do "a series of body-building exercises." He dismissed as "junk" the 11 members of his band who left him during his 1991 US tour, instead emphasizing that he had a great time: "I had sex with all my girls in my band, and I got two extra American girls. Also I had a regulation that any Nigerian who wanted to see me [backstage] must give me present, and the only present I like is igbo [Indian hemp]." By 1993, Fela was telling the press that "Kalakuta is not an ordinary place, it is the center of the world"-that his witches (who were no longer his wives, as he had divorced all of them following his release from prison) were directing what was happening in the country. " If they want this country to be in total confusion in the next one year, they can do it," Fela told the Lagos Weekend. He claimed that the recent misfortunes of his longtime nemesis, ITT and Decca businessman Chief Abiola, was caused by his witches. "Abiola paralyzed because he wants to sell Nigeria to America. It can never be. Abiola himself is just beginning to get what is coming for him. This country is witch country. World is witch world. I have said it before." Smoking one of his 15-inch-long igbo joints, the 56-year-old Fela even claimed he was immortal: "I will never die; my ancestors have told me so."

Fela's Choice
But Fela's health had begun to deteriorate. It was obvious to those close to him that something was seriously wrong. The sexually promiscuous Fela-who had refused to use condoms his entire life, on the grounds that they were synthetic, non-African and a conspiracy against black men experiencing full pleasure-had AIDS. He refused anything but traditional African folk remedies. "I think he thought he could not catch the disease," says Femi. "I don't know why. But back then, nobody has really taken the disease very seriously. So many people have died from the disease in Nigeria and we don't hear because nobody comes out to say 'Yes, he died from AIDS.' Everybody believes that it's a shameful disease." "Fela did not have to die from AIDS," says Sandra. "People don't have to die from AIDS in the '90s. That was the choice Fela made. "When you start to mature, you start to question the way things are. You know, Fela talked about everything. And some people heard it, and a lot of them didn't. It was very, very disappointing. You wonder if death 
is better than life. I think Fela reached the point where he probably didn't want to live. Fela stayed and died in Nigeria, when he could have came out of Nigeria and lived a better life." There were, of course, final indignities. Fela was arrested again for drug possession and paraded before the TV cameras in handcuffs. Femi had to beg the authorities to release Fela on bail, arguing that although Fela had been arrested more times than any Nigerian in history, he had never jumped bail. Fela was typically defiant, saying, "It is not drugs. It is grass." Fela, who had stopped eating and locked himself in his room, finally acceded to his family's wishes to visit a hospital. But it was too late. On August 2, 1997, Fela Anikulapo-Kuti died.

Epilogue
Fela's heart had stopped, but you could still hear its beat. The announcement in his final weeks that Fela had AIDS had done little to dampen the public affection for the man. On an early Monday morning as Fela's body was taken by his family to an arena to lie in state, a million people-silent, crying with their fists in the air- lined the Lagos streets in an unorganized show of respect . "For two days, people didn't do any work in Lagos!" Femi remembers, laughing. "This is the first time in the history of Lagos that they have not had a complaint of robbery, rape or anything. Because all the robbers, all the bad boys, they loved him, you know? Everybody was busy at the funeral!" Today, Kalakuta still stands. The old Shrine has been demolished; Femi has plans to dedicate a new Shrine as early as February, 2000. Seun Kuti, Femi's younger brother, continues to performs Fela's songs with the remaining members of Egypt 80; Femi himself has his own career. Fela's brother Beko was finally released from jail after serving 40 months on typically bogus charges. And 2000 sees the launch by MCA of an ambitious program to issue Fela's albums (many for the first time) in the U.S. 
"He saw all these things going wrong, and he felt he had to talk about it," said Fela's first wife Remi in a 1999 TV interview. "Fela had a mission, and people should have listened to what he was saying. Instead, they just said he was crazy."

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How Fela Landed Me In Jail (John Darnton)


How Fela Landed Me in Jail

By JOHN DARNTON
July 20, 2003

It's not always easy to realize when you're in the presence of genius — especially when it comes in the form of a muscular 5-foot-7 Nigerian, dressed in leopard-skin bikini underpants, his eyes blurry-red from overindulgence in marijuana, who is ranting on and on about a toothbrush. Not a specific toothbrush, but the very idea — the concept —of the toothbrush, which turns out to be a vestige of colonialism, another Western assault on the dignity of Africans.

"Before the white man came, we Africans used sharpened sticks to clean our teeth," said Fela, glaring out from the stage. "I've thrown away my toothbrush. My brothers, we must all throw away our toothbrushes."
It wasn't one of his more thoughtful diatribes. Still, the audience of 400 or so, mostly men in their 20's and 30's, drank it in. The time was somewhere around 3 a.m., in July 1976, at the Shrine, Fela's nightclub in the Surulere section of Lagos. The ramshackle structure was roofed in corrugated metal and threaded by open sewage drains, with women in Band-Aid-strip panties gyrating on bird-cage platforms under the red neon glow of a giant map of Africa. It didn't look like the center of a political-musical revolution.
I liked going to the Shrine: the sweltering heat, the pounding music, the palpable anger in the air, the weapons search at the door, where it was hard to say if more weapons were going or coming. It was my education. The teacher was Fela Anikulapo-Kuti, the originator of Afrobeat, a synthesis of Nigerian high life and American jazz and rock. Thoughts of Fela, who died of an AIDS-related illness in 1997, came flooding back recently as I went to an exhibition in his honor at the New Museum of Contemporary Art, at 583 Broadway in SoHo. The show, "Black President: The Art and Legacy of Fela Anikulapo-Kuti," explores his influence through the work of 34 artists. It says he "was arguably Africa's most influential musician of the last 50 years."
Who am I to argue? Simply put, Fela was the best performer I've ever seen. And not incidentally, he was Nigeria's most notorious political dissident. He had been arrested a half-dozen times. His songs were not allowed on government radio but blared out of thousands of shanties in the slums, which is to say everywhere. Little did I know that my contact with him would help land me in a Lagos dungeon, also stripped to my underwear, and then earn me a one-way ticket out of the country, together with my wife and our two daughters, ages 4 and 6. But I get ahead of myself.
Late one night in February 1976, I arrived in Lagos to take up residence as the West Africa correspondent for The New York Times. The next morning I awakened to military music on the radio. A coup was under way, and the head of state, Murtala Muhammed, had been gunned down in his Mercedes in a traffic jam. The coup failed. But because it was said to involve a former ruler who lived in London, it ignited a week of anti-Western demonstrations, and during one of these I noticed a bizarre caravan of young people led by a Ken Kesey-type Day-Glo bus.
"What's that?" I asked.
"That is Fela," said an Agence France-Presse man, the only other Western reporter in town, "and to the government, he's nothing but trouble." Over the ensuing weeks, I heard more and more about him, so I resolved to meet this 38-year-old legend.
His house, painted yellow and encircled by barbed wire, was called the Kalakuta Republic, because, I was to discover, he took the position that he and his followers could no longer get along with Nigeria, and so had decided to secede. When my wife, Nina, and I were ushered in, we found him an imperial presence. He was seated on a thronelike chair (as always, in his bikini briefs), smoking a cigar-sized joint that was held for him between tokes by one of three or four female attendants. The interview was awkward at first, but he soon warmed up; he was grateful to America, which he had visited in 1969, for teaching him about black power, he said. It was odd, he added, but it took photos of African-Americans wearing dashikis on 125th Street for Nigerians to feel proud in their own national dress. What he most disparaged about the United States was the size of the joints: "Do you believe," he told his circle of wide-eyed followers, "over there, they light up one little one, and they have to pass it around!"

Later that night — much later — we accompanied Fela to the Shrine, a walk of about four blocks. In a ritual that I was to see repeated time and again, he stopped traffic for blocks around, strolling down the center of the street like a bantam toreador while a multitude of worshipers pressed in from all sides, throwing clenched-fist power salutes and chanting his name in a quasi-religious fervor: "Fay-leh!" "Fay-leh!" "Fay-leh!"

Once we were inside, the music took some getting used to. The songs by his band, Afrika 70, lasted 40 minutes or more, and after a while, the beat behind the jazz riffs caught momentum. But from the first moment, his performance was electrifying: imagine the sauciness of Mick Jagger, the rebellious snarl of Bob Dylan and the cool authority of John Coltrane. He strutted and strolled, danced and pranced and played the saxophone like a madman. From time to time, he would break into pidgin English to drive home a political point about the backwardness of Africa or the corruption of its leaders. He derided the "colonized" African: "African man no de bare African name. African man no de think African style." And in a song called "Zombie o Zombie," he taunted the military, marching around the stage with his sax tucked under his arm like a rifle. The audience loved it. It was the military, of course, that eventually did him in.
Over the course of a year, we saw quite a bit of Fela. Once, in an attempt to deepen the friendship by removing him from his entourage, we invited him to dinner at our place on the island of Ikoyi, the enclave for rich Nigerians and foreigners, that he sometimes lambasted in his songs. My wife negotiated the numbers. He wanted to bring 38. She insisted on 3. They struck a compromise: it would be 5. The evening of the dinner, he turned up almost on time — in the Day-Glo bus, with 18 others. We ate small. He sat in the tallest chair and put his own records on the hi-fi, just like home. The next day he sent us a thank-you gift: a jar of the substance he called N.N.G. — Nigerian natural grass.
Fela was born in Abeokuta, the center of Yoruba culture, to a family that grew to prominence under British colonialism. (His father was an Anglican preacher, and his mother a fighter for independence.) In 1959 he studied classical music in London, where he fell under the spell of Charlie Parker, Miles Davis and other Americans. It took years for his jazz-infused music to catch on at home.
His politics were not deep. His three heroes were Kwame Nkrumah of Ghana, which was fine, but also Sékou Touré, the leftist tyrant of Guinea; and Idi Amin, the deranged buffoon leading Uganda into bloody ruination. I could never shake his idolatry for Amin, whom he admired as "a big man." Inside his own republic, he himself was a dictator. He meted out punishments: lashings with a cane for the men and confinement in a tin-shed "jail" for women. Once, in a hotel room in Accra, Ghana, we walked in while he was administering "justice" to one of his 27 wives, and we turned and left in disgust.
My own time in the slammer can be traced to the evening of Feb. 18, 1977. Our dinner was interrupted with a frantic knock at the door. It was a runner from Fela, delivering a two-word message: "Come — urgent." I made my way to the Kalakuta Republic, and from blocks away, I saw flames leaping high into the night air. Soldiers were beating passers-by, who were fleeing with their arms raised in a gesture of surrender. It was a riot by the military. It lasted five hours. When it was over, Fela was wounded, along with 60 others, including his mother (who was to die much later from her injuries). I high-tailed it home, wrote an article and sent it off to New York. The next morning, I picked up the Nigerian newspapers and saw how seriously the government viewed the incident: not a single word anywhere on the attack.
The riot caused such public distress that the military authorities held a public inquiry in the new national theater. I accompanied a friend, a drummer named Bayo Martins, who had had a falling out with Fela but still respected him. As the only white face in the crowd, I was not hard to spot; police summoned me, confiscated my notes and told me to leave. A small item appeared in a Nigerian paper the next day.

One week later, after I returned from Ethiopia, I found four plainclothes security policemen in my office, rifling the files. One was pretending to read letters — and holding them upside down. Luckily, about three hours later, my driver appeared. I took him aside and gave a message to be delivered to my wife: for God's sake, get rid of Fela's gift. I used a term he had never heard, and in carrying out my injunction, he breathlessly mangled it (the malalaba? maraluba? Maryjanal?), but she caught on and flushed it down the toilet moments before the police arrived.

I was taken to a prison and handed over to a 7-foot-tall warden who was stripped to the waist, with a raised scar curving around his shoulder and across his belly. He demanded my clothes, piece by piece. When I removed my shirt, he was shocked at the juju charm around my neck and asked, politely, where I had obtained it.
"Zaire," I replied. Even then, Zaire was collapsing as a country, but its magic was the envy of the continent. In exchange for an elephant-hair bracelet, the warden let me keep my underpants. He escorted me to an underground cell with a straw mat and a tiny window that was out of reach. After about eight hours, I was summoned for interrogation by a young man in reflecting sunglasses. I had been told by the American ambassador weeks before that the military authorities were displeased with various articles I had written: one on infant mortality, one on pirates in Lagos harbor and one on a campaign to unsnarl Lagos's notorious traffic jams by whipping motorists. But among the questions put to me by the young man was: "And what kind of music do you like?" I was definitely a lover of Brahms and Beethoven.
Some 16 hours later, after my wife and daughters also put in time in jail, we were expelled from the country. The man who locked us into a holding cell at Murtala Muhammed Airport shook his head sadly and said, "I am so ashamed for my country." The plane we were put on landed in Kenya, and there we remained for another three years.
From time to time, I would hear about Fela. Many years later, in 1986, he came to New York and called me. He said I should quit the newspaper and go to work for him as his "minister of information."
I was taken aback. "Minister?" I said. "What are you — some kind of country?"
He laughed and said: "Yes. And I'm bigger than all Nigeria."  

John Darnton, an associate editor of The New York Times, was its West Africa correspondent from 1976 to 1979.